Daily Archives: November 14, 2010

A Day in San Telmo

After our comfortable stay at a hotel in central Buenos Aires, it was time to move on to a hostel. A hostel will allow us to better control our budget, cook for ourselves, and generally live a little more cheaply. Before we left on this trip, I said to myself that a double room would be my must-have luxury, but tonight and tomorrow, we’re sleeping in a 5-bed dorm, because the double room was not available at the Hostal de San Telmo. I guess I have to live with it. So far, there is only one other person in the room, which would technically make it a 3-bed dorm. Maybe I can feel like 21 again then.

San Telmo is the oldest neighborhood in Buenos Aires, and offers lots of nice colonial buildings. A food market is right in the center, and takes up an entire city block. They don’t just sell food, but all sorts of other stuff (which we would never buy). Plaza Dorrego, the main square, is one of the major attractions in the city, along with the pedestrian Fußgängerzone “Defensa”. We enjoyed strolling around, looking at street performers, and listening to local music. Defensa was very similar to La Calle Florida, the main pedestrian street in the Microcentro. I prefer San Telmo to the Center. Everything is much smaller, and I also don’t have the feeling that I’m getting lost all the time. My map reading skills are not the best, I have to admit, and San Telmo accommodates that. The rest of the day we spent in Puerto Madero again, visiting the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, a 865-acre (3.50 km2) tract of low land on the Río de la Plata river bank.

But the actual highlight of the day was our lunch. Last night, we had one of the worst dinners since our skiing trip to Killington, VT last year. Recommended by the travel guide, the restaurant we went to served us humongous portions, that only an elephant could have finished. Matt’s bife de chorizo was acceptable, but my fish was so dry, I couldn’t even eat half of it. It was also a portion for three – what whale can eat all of that? Anyways, today we found an option of getting a dozen empanadas to go for very little money, and were super thrilled when we had them next to the water.

We’re running behind with our picture album, so I’m only going to upload the highlight: one DOZEN hot empanadas in a box! 🙂